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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.